Ginger Made: Anise Jacket

Here she is– my first make of 2013, and my very first jacket!  I’m so excited to add this little piece to my wardrobe!

This is my January contribution to the Mood Sewing Network.  I went to Mood NYC with every intention of leaving with a bright, saturated fabric, but once I laid eyes on this gorgeous Ralph Lauren wool, I couldn’t put it back!  It’s a twill-weave suiting with lots of drape, and the warm, paprika-red shade is really easy for me to wear.  I picked out a fun silk charmeuse in a Tetris-like print for a contrast lining.

I used Colette Patterns’ Anise jacket pattern, which is perfect for beginners.  I bought the The Anise Companion when it was on sale a while back, and it’s a great confidence booster if you haven’t sewn a jacket before.  There’s quite a bit of helpful information about how to correct various fit issues, but as it’s pretty straightforward to fit, you probably don’t need the companion guide if you’re an intermediate (or beyond) sewist.

Oh, look! There’s a mouse in my pocket!

The whole jacket is underlined with lightweight muslin, which helped to stabilize and secure the fabric (like most twill weaves, this stuff frays like a mother!).  I used Pro-Weft Supreme Medium-Weight Fusible Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply after Gertie recommended it for her coat sew-along.  The interfacing feels like a quality product and didn’t pill, bubble, or come unglued the way that cheaper products sometimes do.

The shoulder pads gave me a bit of trouble.  I used 1/4″ shoulder pads, and I had a great deal of difficulty getting them to lie nicely and not look lumpy and unattractive where they meet the sleeve.  I think this was due to my fabric– since it’s a drapey, lighter-weight wool, the pads were really visible.  I solved the problem (mostly) by drafting sleeve heads out of cotton batting (instructions for how to do this are included in the Anise companion).  The weight of the batting makes the sleeve cap a bit more substantial, so it looks worlds better now.

All buttoned up…

I made a size 4, but cut the shoulders and sleeve caps as a size 2.  If I made this again, I would narrow the sleeves a bit more as they’re a tiny bit baggy (I was worried that they would be too tight once they were lined and I had a shirt on underneath the jacket).  I also added 2″ to the length to keep a cropped, vintage feel but avoid flashing my tramp stamp lower back when I bend over (don’t worry, ma, only kidding!).

The jacket comes together easily, but it’s really time-consuming.  I spent basically every spare evening/weekend moment this month working on it (granted, I’m pretty slow, but still…).  Steps like constructing the welt pockets are explained really clearly, but they do take time to do correctly.  I hand-basted the markings for the buttons and buttonholes, hand-stitched the lining pieces together to avoid slippage when I sewed them, and spent ages pressing and steaming to get everything to look right.  I’m really glad that I took the time to do a good job, but it was really hard to keep other projects and ideas on the back burner while I slogged away at this one for a month.

This jacket is a little dressier than what I usually wear day-to-day, so I just machine-stitched buttonholes and used 1″ faux-tortoise buttons to keep it looking casual.  But I think this would look really cute (and very early ’60’s) with bound buttonholes and covered buttons, maybe even paired with a skirt to make a sweet little suit.

Overall, I’m happy with this jacket and think it looks alright for a first attempt (although it’s definitely not perfect).   The wool suiting is really easy to work with, too.  It presses neatly, is warm but lightweight, and the seams aren’t bulky at all.  I highly recommend the pattern for anyone looking to make their first jacket.  But I can definitely say that I’m looking forward to making a few quick and dirty projects after this one!

What about you guys?  Are you tailoring fiends, or are you working up the nerve to make your first jacket?  Do you like investing time in slow projects, or do you prefer to sew a top in a day?

[Note: If you're a Mood Sewing Network reader, you may notice that my posts are different there than here on my blog.  I keep my posts pretty brief over on MSN, but I thought that you guys might want to read more details about construction and the pattern.] 

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Filed under Uncategorized, Colette Patterns, finished object, Mood Sewing Network

188 responses to “Ginger Made: Anise Jacket

  1. It’s so beautiful!!!!! I’m so impressed with your work, and how you’re throwing around phrases like “underlined with muslin” and “Pro-Weft Supreme Medium Weight Interfacing” and “drafting sleeve heads out of batting.” It’s making me feel a little intimidated about my upcoming coat project!

  2. This jacket is so stunning on you. This is one of those patterns that I keep seeing others make and I want to make one too. Then I have to remind myself that it’s just not me and would never get worn. Then I get sad because it’s so lovely on you.

    • Thanks, Kelli! It’s too bad this isn’t your style because you would look so cute in it! I wasn’t sure this was my style, either, but I hoped that picking a less girly color would make it more mine. You’re definitely my jacket inspiration– I so love all of your blazers!

  3. puu

    ginger, i think the red jacket was a great choice for you, and i LOVE your finished product. what a great make! sometimes, those long-term sewing projects end up being so worth it in the end…and i hope this one will for you, after sacrificing almost a month of sewing time on it ;-)

  4. Love, the color, love the lining, and — hooray! — its actually warm enough today that you can wear this!

  5. This is a really gorgeous coat! I love the wool – I’ve been eyeing it as well. I have it on my list to make a coat this year and I just might need to follow in your footsteps. Thanks for the great post!

  6. Claire

    What a lovely color! It looks fabulous on you and just perfect for all the grey weather recently.

    I totally empathize on how time consuming this pattern is – I’ve been working on it for over a month to make sure I don’t make (very many) mistakes. Cutting out all the pieces seemed to take forever! It was fun to work on such an involved project, and sewing heavy fabric was very satisfying, but I’ve already decided the next project will involve plain old cotton!

    • I’m with you– regular old cotton sounds great to me! I just cut out a jersey top… no hassle, no fuss, super quick…

      I hope your jacket turns out well! :) It really is a lot of work!

  7. I can’t believe you made this!!! So impressive!!

  8. Beautiful jacket! Love the color and the construction looks fantastic.

  9. Coulda fooled me, it looks perfect!!! Beautiful job. I made a jacket a little over a year ago without the knowledge of how to underline or stabilize a full garment. It was still time consuming, but I really want to make another one with all the innards. I just can’t find time amongst all the other projects I have lined up ;) With winter half over, I might just wait till next fall to get started.

  10. Oh wow!!!!!!!! How incredible this is ginger! I am in love with it, such an amazing colour and looks like a major quality make. You clever thing, you. It’s funny, cos I’ve just put this jacket on my wish list…really want to make it after reading your post and seeing your results!

  11. Wow this is stunning! I’ve never even been tempted to make outerwear before, but this is so pretty I just might try it when I have some time. I do rather like quick results in a project, but I’m trying to change that and make my work better finished! Great job on yours! x

    • Thanks, girl! The nice thing about this pattern is that it makes it easy for you to have good results as EVERY step of the way is explained. But I do like a mix of quick projects and more complicated ones. :)

  12. The paprika red is a great colour on you. Very flattering and versatile too! You did a great job, it looks lovely on you.

  13. That is magnificent! I love your lining. It looks like it will be a great coat to wear. Congrats on your first outerwear!

  14. Oh honey, this is SO fabulous!! Love that color, and the lining, and just everything. Swoon city!! Trust me, I know what a bear this jacket is timewise. I’ve been picking at mine off and on for at least a couple of months, so I appreciate the meticulous work you put into it! Congrats!!!
    It IS a great pattern, and the companion really helps. Thanks for putting such a gorgeous version out there. It will inspire a ton of people to give it a try.

  15. lloubb

    This is beautiful!! I hope you wear it lots :)

  16. misscrayolacreepy

    I’m in love with this jacket!!!! Jacket + those boots = super cute outfit!

    I also bought the companion with the pattern, but need to muster up the courage to get started

  17. i love the red color. it’s gorgeous! one of these days i will get around to sewing a jacket. thanks for the inspiration.

  18. Oh! I think all your hard work definitely paid off!

    The longer I sew, the more I am drawn to “slow projects”. And these days, even when I’m doing a project that could be a quick and easy make, I find ways to alter or embellish or complicate it somehow. LOL But everyone is different!

  19. Wow, really great job! I love the color and lining is adorable! I am drawn to projects that I can finish in a weekend, but this jacket is on my list to make and probably would take me a month as well.

  20. Wowee, that jacket is a stunner! You picked the perfect color for your Anise. I have plans to make one (maybe next month?) and wool fabric that I bought a few weeks ago in the garment district. Thanks for your reviews and recommendations, especially about the Sewing Companion – I think I’ll still get it, even though I’m not a beginner stitcher. This will be my first jacket, eeek!

  21. Awesome jacket. Well done. You were right to go slowly and your hard work has really paid off. I like the longer length as well and the colour worn open makes it look like a different jacket altogether.

  22. love the jacket! it’s such a classic look and and the fabric you used looks great on you. i’ve just dipped my toes into tailoring by making a coat in the fall, but i really do enjoy the work and the detail. and yeah, it does help to work on a quickie project afterwards, because it is draining!

  23. This is gorgeous! I have “make a jacket” on my goals list this year, but I’m definitely terrified. Good to know that this is a great pattern to start with. I love the colors you chose – and that contrasting lining is super cool!

  24. This looks fantastic! My big goal this year is sewing pants, but if I can do that before summer, maybe a jacket will be on the fall/winter list. I love the look of the added length, I will have to remember that! :)

  25. All of the work you put into this really paid off; it’s amazing! You should be really proud of yourself. (Also, I LOVE the color.)

  26. Oh you little minx…you kept this so quiet …last thing I remember you had planned to do the sewalong (like me) and failed (like me) ;o). I absolutely love your Anise, you look so cute in it (the style and colour are perfect on you) and it’s excellently made. Love the lining too!

  27. Great job. Absolutely adorable! Thanks for the tips – this jacket wasn’t on my list of plans, but it just might now be…. I agree, after doing a project like that you need to run up a few quick immediate gratification projects :)

  28. i love it.. cove the color, and that cute collar.. and congrats on conquering your first jacket :)

  29. It looks great – congratulations on a quality make!! The color is WONDERFUL!

  30. i love it! i bought the anise and the companion the second they came out, it was love at first sight. but then i couldn’t find the right fabric, and the pattern is still untouched… you just wakened my lust, though. a pretty spring jacket would be exactly what i need. on to fabric hunting!

  31. Pam from South Australia

    Congratulations on your latest make. Now you can cross ‘jacket’ off your list….been there, done that! Lovely style, lovely fabric/colour, lovely you.

  32. What a stunning shade of wool! I love how this jacket fits on you, and I especially love that delicious lining! Well done :)

  33. That is gorgeous! I’m blown away. :)

  34. Niiice! That colour really suits you and I love the welt pockets! It’s come together beautifully.

  35. Ginger this is awesome – I LOVE the colour, and the fact that you ticked one of your sewlutions off the list right off the bat at he beginning of the year – way to go! As you know, s far as projects go I’m a quick and dirty kind of gal and that’s the reason making a jacket or trousers has been put off for sooo long! Thanks for the warning about the time investment on one of these – now I know to tackle it when things are calm and I can devote all my attention to it! Your Anise rocks!

  36. Gorgeous! I love the paprika color. This is my favorite version of this pattern I’ve seen.

  37. Aww that looks gorgeous:) I love the collar and the colour too

  38. So damn impressive! And ridiculously chic too! Definitely worth the effort. (particularly in love with the lining <3 )

  39. What a gorgeous jacket, love the fabric and lining.

  40. Very nice and bright jacket! I plan to do one – may be this

  41. What a fabulous jacket! I am super impressed with how professional the finish looks. Love it! The colour is delish and the lining is too cute for words. Glad to hear this is a great beginners coat because this is going to be my first attempt at one. Fingers crossed it looks as rad as this!

  42. Love it, it looks amazing! The color is so great on you. I’m a big fan of alternating between big and small projects, and always having a knitting project going for when I only have a few minutes.

  43. Love, love, love it. I’m jealous of both your wool fabric and the lining – what is the lining made of?! I’ve pretty much avoided tailoring so far, which makes me feel a bit sheepish.

  44. Squee! I saw this on Mood’s Instagram first and fell in love with it. You did such a good job for your first jacket. All the hard work definitely paid off.

  45. Loving this and that lining is to die for!!

  46. Stunning work, so impressive….at this time in my life I’m a quick project girl (who am I kidding, woman) but I dream of one day getting back to more challenging items like this … well done for keeping on going for so long on one project, it looks like something you’ll be able to enjoy for years to come.

  47. Hi Ginger, it’s Pam from ~Off The Cuff Style~ and –where you got your interfacing! Wow, your jacket turned out great…you did a beautiful job and I love the color! It’s so fun for me to see garments made with one of my products inside :)

  48. It looks amazing!!! I love the color! And it looks pretty fucking awesome, to me!!! I wouldn’t bother pointing out, or even thinking about, any mistakes.

  49. You did it! You did it! It’s SO well done, Ginger! Congrats on a perfect classic little jacket!

  50. Oh, I love it! You make me want to make one.

    (Also, sidenote: I love your boots! Are they new enough to still be able to buy them? I ruined my knee-high boots recently and I’m dying to find a replacement pair…)

  51. Sara

    Good for you, Ginger. It looks perfect to me.

  52. Gorgeous jacket, Ginger, it looks amazing.

  53. It’s gorgeous! Great job – I love me a nice, tailored wool jacket!

  54. What can I add to these comments that hasn’t been said already?!! So much love here for your Anise- it really is stunning! And I do love a red jacket to brighten a winter day :)

  55. I love this, it looks SO stylish! The shade of red is beautiful and the jacket really has an expensive feel to it. Great job! One day when I get around to attempting tailoring I hope my first attempt is half as successful :-)

  56. Jo

    Awesome, awesome! So cool! :D It is totally rad and I can’t believe you sewed a jacket… my heroine haha :)

  57. WOWEEE! This is gorgeous – all that time and effort and care has made a beautiful garment – well done!

  58. It looks great! And the color looks pretty bright to me, but then, my coat is black. :D

    • Heeheehee, I guess this is duller than many of my garish color choices! I wore a lot of black during my rock & roll teens, so now I prefer to get a little color in my wardrobe. :)

  59. I can’t get over this jacket!! I want it so bad! The color is great, the fit is perfect. It looks wonderful on you! This is by far my favorite make of yours! I would never want to take it off!

  60. Argh! Jacket envy, Jacket envy!
    This is SO CUTE….. this makes me want to sack off fixing my Minoru and start on an Anise instead…. Practicality wins though… based on my productivity if I started an Anise now it might be ready by spring 2014! I love this colour on you, you look AWESOME!

    • Aw man, I really want a Minoru now! Maybe in March, in time for spring weather? Hmm… But girl, you could TOTALLY get this done. Sarai’s sewalong breaks it down into an eight-day plan. I probably spent eight days total working on it– I just don’t have spare time on weeknights to sew, so my eight days were spread out over the course of a month. :)

  61. What a stunner! It shows that you’ve put lots of effort and love into this beauty! I understand how difficult it was for you to continue working the jacket while wanting to bring into life other ideas ! I am still working on the dress from Susan’s class (since October)….

    • Thanks, lady! I can’t wait to see your dress from Susan’s class (whenever you finish it). It’s going to be killer! Some projects just take longer than others (I’m thinking of my dress from my class with Gertie, that I started in September and didn’t finish until May!).

  62. C

    Really cute jacket. Love the color and the collar!

  63. I like the Anise jacket better with the added length. I’ve always thought the original jacket looked a bit disproportionate, now I know why. I’m working on a coat myself, and it really is soooo time-consuming. I actually used a 60s dress pattern, so I also had to make a ton of changes to make it into a coat pattern. What slows it down most, though, is probably the lack of decent supplies in my area. I had to order my lining fabric online and it takes so long to arrive.

    • It’s just a little too short for me otherwise. I think that really cropped jackets look better on curvier people. I just look extra boxy in shorter lengths.

      I’m excited to see your coat! It does sound laborious, though. And it’s definitely slower if you have to wait for supplies…

  64. Wow Sonja! Really really REALLY beautiful job! You’ve left me speechless! This is such a perfect little jacket and it fits you like a dream. I’m also now obsessed with the idea of this as a little cropped 60’s suit jacket with a matching skirt (and a little hat too?!)

    • Thanks, Sallie! I’m tempted to squeeze a skirt out of the leftovers (although it would have to be MINI). And a hat– ooh! And gloves! Why don’t we dress like that these days?

  65. Beautiful! Love that this jacket looks good buttoned-up all the way, and with the top button undone. Love!

  66. It’s fantastic! And yey to your first jacket! The fit looks great, and I love the fabric and lining. Happy wearing! :)

  67. You did such a nice job! This is a beautiful piece that you will have for years, totally worth the investment of time!

  68. Tiffany

    Wow! Just wow. That is a beautiful coat! My favorite Anise I’ve seen by far. I love that color and the slightly longer length. Definitely inspired to try my hand at a jacket this year now! Beautiful job.

  69. Well done! This is amazing! You’ve done a great job and this is a beautiful colour. It really suits you.

  70. Looks just fabulous! Yay for sticking with it!

    • Thanks, VK! The best thing about sewing for Mood is that I’m forced to finish projects on a deadline, so lots of things that would otherwise turn into UFO’s actually get made!

  71. Honey that is gorgeous!!!! That’s it!!!! I;m committing to making a jacket this year!!!!

  72. I must have missed this post in my WordPress reader – criminal. Thank goodness for my Gwhizz, Feedly & bloglovin’ apps which I have operating trying to solve the mobile blogger commenting issue (major fail).
    Love this, it’s just lovely. Sweet, simple and classic.
    I have a cornflower or electric blue version of this in my head. Alas my fabric store does not have it on the rack!

  73. wow! you made a jacket! Great job on this – it looks so good on you, and that colour is perfect on you.

  74. Elise

    Wow, cute cute! I love that red suiting and the lining you chose. I ordered this pattern a while back and have been itching to sew it up. Great job!

  75. This looks so vibrant and cheerful for winter, you have done a lovely job on the finishing too. It really suits you!

  76. Well done! I’m so very impressed! I wish I had bought the Anise companion booklet back when it was on sale, but I just knew that I wasn’t going to be making the jacket any time soon. Oh well. . .
    The paprika is the perfect shade; I’m glad you picked it!

  77. LOVE the lining, and the coat in general. You did such a beautiful job!

  78. Terrific job and great colour on you. The Anise is now on my to do list!

  79. Gorgeous – I love it. The colour, the buttons, ths shape…I am not making a jacket at the moment though I would really love to. Especially after seeing your Anise. I just have to keep things simple in terms of my sewing. :) xx

  80. I said before but this jacket is amazing!!! I love it

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  82. This looks really good Ginger, I can hardly believe it’s your first jacket! :)

    I love tailoring, but I already have too many tailored clothes for my climate… Maybe next year when I’m somewhere with more reasonable seasons… :)

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  85. Lovely lining, muct have jacket, can be worn with almost anything namely skirt, pants, dress, jeans, or leggings. It can be use for a casual or dressy outing. Great style, and fashionable. T H A N K YOU for sharing!

  86. You look absolutely marvelous in that red! I am so impressed that you just jumped in and made a bold red jacket. I bought red wool two years ago for making a coat, then chickened out and it’s still sitting in my fabric bin. Yours is so inspiring, and looks so well made! Good choice re: the buttons and lining, to keep it more casual. Also, your whole outfit just looks so classy and put together!

  87. I have this one coming up in my queue (making it for a friend), so I am so glad to read about your experience with it! Yours turned out just wonderfully – that red is stunning. Great job, and thanks for the info!

  88. Amy

    Congrats on your jacket! What a cool way to start the year. I’m so detail-oriented that I love making coats and taking time… but I know what you mean–at the end other projects start calling my name!

  89. Holy crap, this is adorable!! I love the color and everything about the fit suits you so well! :)

  90. This is STUNNING. Red is always appropriate, rich looking, and attention grabbing. I love it-super job!

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  92. I was just skimming through your blog the other day and I’m back again today to have another snoop around :) Ha! At first I thought this was just a style post but silly me! You actually made this beautiful jacket from scratch! You talented woman! Just, wow. Thanks for following along with my blog too :D

  93. zoe

    Oh Ginger this is AMAZING!!!! Such a cute and wearable little jacket. I’ll bet you wear it for years and years to come xxx

  94. Thanks GM, I’m working up the courage to do my first jacket, I love this pattern so will definitely give it a go after reading this. Eeeeee (nervous squeal). Ps love it in red!

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